Most
visitors to
Mull arrive
on the M.V.
Isle of
Mull, a modern
roll-on-roll-off car
ferry which sails from
Oban and can bring 1,000
passengers per trip to
the island as well as
cars, coaches and
lorries. The
forty-minute crossing
provides those on board
with an enjoyable
opportunity of seeing
both shorelines of the
Firth of Lorn, as well
as that of the island of
Lismore, as the coast of
Mull draws closer. Lady
Rock, the tiny reef
between the Lismore
lighthouse and the Mull
shore, was the scene of
a famous attempted
murder by one of the
chiefs of Clan Maclean,
who inhabited Duart
Castle on the promontory
opposite. He bound up
and left his wife to
drown on rocks that he
knew would be flooded by
the incoming tide.
However, unbeknown to
Maclean, she was rescued
by passing fishermen and
taken to her father, a
great nobleman. When
Maclean went to his
father-in-law's castle
to tell him the sad
news, she was presented
to him alive and well.
Shortly afterwards
Maclean himself suffered
a violent death. The
island's romantic
atmosphere fosters
countless stories such
as this, many endowed
with a kernel of truth.
Certainly the approach
to Craignure pier is
dramatic, the slopes of
Dun da Ghaoithe (2,512
ft) dwarfing the
sheltered, richly wooded
bay. Opposite Craignure
village is the mouth of
Loch Linnhe, which
extends north-eastwards
for more that forty
miles, its upper reach
overlooked by the
highest mountain in
Great Britain - Ben
Nevis at 4,406 ft. On a
clear day the mountain's
massive shape can be
seen from many places on
the east coast of Mull.
Leaving the jetty at
Craignure, turn
westwards to take the
romantic road that
strikes across southern
Mull to Iona in the
extreme west. A little
more than a mile out of
the village is Torosay
Castle, an imposing
Victorian building set
in beautiful grounds.
Both the castle and its
grounds are open to
visitors who may care to
travel the short
distance from Craignure
jetty by steam railway.
A
little further on from
Craignure is the turning
that leads to Duart
Castle, home of the
Chief of Clan Maclean.
Its commanding position,
as well as the aura of
history that radiates
from it, attracts many
visitors to its doors.
The thirteenth-century
keep has walls 14 ft
thick, and the cannon
mounted on them
commanded the passage of
the Sound of Mull at its
narrowest point.
Duart has had a stormy
past: in 1691 it was
sacked by the Duke of
Argyll, and after Clan
Maclean's support of the
Stuarts in 1715 and 1745
the castle was left in
ruins until 1912, when
it was restored by the
present chief's
great-grandfather. Duart
is open to the public in
the summer months; many
fascinating relics of
the clan's history are
on display, as well as a
famous exhibition of
Scouting.
The
Craignure-Fionnphort
road next skirts the
head of Loch Spelve, a
great sea loch unusual
in having its access to
the sea on its longer
eastern shore, so that
in effect it is
T-shaped. Its origins
derive from the
cataclysmic earth
movements that created
Loch Linnhe, the Great
Glen and Loch Ness
further to the
north-east. If time
allows, pause here for a
moment by the head of
Loch Spelve. The small
island that you see to
the south is Eilean
Armalaig, where evidence
remains of
fortifications built by
the Macleans of Duart to
protect the slipways for
their galleys, still to
be seen on the loch
shore opposite. Legend
tells how Lachlan
Maclean, a
sixteenth-century chief
of the clan, was warned
that should he ever take
his galleys
anti-clockwise round
Eilean Armalaig he would
suffer evil
consequences. A proud
and haughty man, Lachlan
took little heed of the
warning and shortly
afterwards met his death
during one of the
periodic feuds with the
Chief of Islay. As he
was about to lay the
coup de grace on the
opposing chief, Lachlan
was shot in the back by
a hunchback that he had
scorned to have in his
troop.
More about the Isle of
Mull
Last
updated
08/01/2010
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